Understanding Preservatives In Skincare

June 6, 2005

Ever wondered about the fuss surrounding preservatives in skincare? Sit back and buckle up: we’re here to help decode the mystery and separate fact from fiction, offering up more than you likely ever wanted to know about cosmetic preservatives.


Why use preservatives?
We’ve all seen an ill-kept swimming pool at some point in our life. Their owners haven’t taken the time to regularly check the chemical levels and that usually manifests itself in a shocking shade of green water. But what’s in there? The short answer: a host of “beasties” you wouldn’t want to swim in.


Water is a natural breeding ground for a host of microorganisms including mold, fungus, yeast and bacteria. While some of these microorganisms can be quite benign, others pose a serious health risk. Cosmetics operate on largely the same parallel: many personal care products contain water and, therefore, must be treated to ensure that they are “clean” and safe for consumer use. What would happen if a product wasn’t properly preserved? The same type of microbial growth you’ve seen in that neighbor’s pool.

How do preservatives work?
Pull out all the cosmetics from your cabinet and you'll likely find as many different preservative systems as you have bottles of lotion. There are a wide variety of chemical preservatives used by American cosmetic companies and, while each may function differently, the basic premise is roughly the same: they inhibit the growth of harmful organisms. Cosmetics manufacturers must find a delicate balance in researching the best preservative for each product. The ultimate goal is to offer the highest level of protection with minimum risk of irritation, all while ensuring compatibility with the end product. It's not always an easy task, but your health is certainly worth the effort. Those products which don't contain water may not necessarily have an added preservative system since the "beasties" need water to grow.


How do I know what preservatives are in my product?
Preservatives are generally added at 1% or less of the final formula. Since the FDA mandates that all cosmetics must bear an ingredient declaration detailing their contents in descending order, preservatives are usually near the bottom of the list. The most common preservative system in the US is a family of chemicals called "parabens"...you'll find them under names like Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben and/or Isobutylparaben. Other preservative systems can be found under these names: Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Sodium, Hydroxymethylglycinate, DMDM Hydantoin or Disodium EDTA. Manufacturers generally consider effectiveness, compatibility, availability, cost, ease of use and a handful of other factors when choosing a preservative system.


Are preservatives safe?
Generally speaking, yes. There is always a risk of irritation or adverse reaction to any new substance (including natural materials), but the FDA cautiously reviews the safety of cosmetic materials on a regular basis. Most manufacturers carefully select their preservatives and run a battery of tests to ensure efficacy, safety and compatibility with their end product. The hazards posed by unpreserved cosmetics are far greater than the hazards posed by low-usage preservatives with a proven track record of safety. Improperly preserved items have caused bacterial infections, irritation, and (in extremely rare cases) blindness.

Concerns over paraben use have been raised since 2002, when one study presented findings indicating that parabens have a mild estrogenic effect on the body, potentially raising cancer concerns. Later studies in 2003 and 2004 revealed that parabens were stored in some cancerous breast tumors. Parabens have not been determined to be the cause of those tumors, only found within some of the tumor tissue. Furthermore, parabens are found in many food items, so it’s too early to determine how the parabens that turned up in tumor tissue actually got there- via cosmetics and personal care items or food items. These studies are extremely preliminary and research is ongoing.

Are there any natural alternatives?
Many "natural" skincare companies use GSE (Grapefruit Seed Extract) in their formulas. While its popularity may be growing, the body of evidence supporting its efficacy is not. In fact, several recent studies have shown that "natural" GSE is tainted with synthetic preservatives to boost its efficacy (see here and here). In our opinion, the only thing worse than not using a preservative is making the claim that a product contains an all-natural preservative system when it does not. Knowledge is power and Bella Luccè stands firmly behind fully disclosing what's in our product collection so that you can make an informed decision.


If you see a product that contains water and doesn't have a recognizable preservative in the ingredient listing, ask the manufacturer or store owner which material is serving as their preservative. If they claim the product doesn't contain a preservative, then either: you have a product that can easily grow bacteria and pose a health risk, or you have a product that is safely preserved but the manufacturer has elected (against FDA regulations) not to list their preservative. Either way, you'll want to consider whether you're comfortable using a product that isn't properly preserved and/or labeled.


Rancidity is a separate issue. While preservation prevents microbial growth, measures to prevent rancidity are undertaken to prevent the spoilage of natural vegetable oils and butters. These materials can break down over time and eventually spoil, causing an unpleasant odor. There are several natural substances which can help retard rancidity, vitamin E and rosemary oleoresin extract among them, but these substances cannot prevent microbial growth. Bella Luccè uses a combination of natural rancidity retardants and a reputable preservative system in our products.


A select few companies manufacture their products fresh-to-order and expeditiously ship them direct to clients. These products may not contain any synthetic preservatives, but they must be refrigerated at all times and generally used within 30 days.



How do I know if my products are tainted?
Tainted products will often have an "off" smell or display a change in texture. If your product seems to be separating, changing colors, or shows signs of mold growth, discard it immediately. However, don’t be lulled into a false sense of security if you don’t see or smell changes in an old or unpreserved product. Most bacteria are invisible to the naked eye and could still be present en masse. A good rule of thumb is to use all products within 9 months of opening.


How can I help protect myself?
Even the best preservative systems can be overcome if they're inundated with microorganisms; but a few common-sense rules can help keep your cosmetics fresh. Tightly close containers as soon as you've finished applying the product. Don't dip wet or dirty hands into jars of products. Always store products in a cool area, preferably out of direct sunlight. Discard all products which have passed their expiration date or were initially opened more than 9 months ago.


What is Bella Luccè's stand?
As a company committed to our client's health, Bella Luccè has chosen to use Germall Plus as our preservative system to protect our products from harmful microbes and mold spores, as well as extend their shelf life. The FDA mandates that we use the proper scientific name on our products, so you'll see these preservatives listed as Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate near the bottom of the list on any Bella Luccè product that contains water.


A paraben-free preservative, Germall Plus has a 30 year track record of safety and is approved in the European Union, whose cosmetic guidelines are more stringent than those found in the US. Germall Plus is also effective at extremely low levels, allowing us to use a maximum of .2% in our formulas. Many preservatives have a typical usage rate of 1%, so products made with those preservative systems will contain up to 5x more preservative content. We're very comfortable with our decision to use this preservative system, which has consistently demonstrated incredible efficacy and has a respected safety record among many leading cosmetic chemists in the personal care industry.

Development is ongoing for a new, more natural approach to preservation. The staff at Bella Luccè closely follows these developments and looks forward to the the day when we have a reliable, throughly tested natural alternative. Until then, we will continue to use low-dose preservatives with a respected history of safety. We take your health seriously and appreciate the trust you put in us!